Migingo Island, nestled in Lake Victoria, Africa's largest lake, defies the idyllic image often associated with African islands. Far from a tourist paradise, this minuscule landmass, barely half the size of a soccer field (approximately half an acre), is home to around 500 inhabitants, earning it the moniker "the world's most crowded island." Every inch of its rocky, barren surface is densely packed with corrugated metal shacks, creating a maze of narrow alleys and a bustling, if precarious, community.

The island's bizarre story began in the 1990s when it emerged as Lake Victoria's waters receded. In 1991, Kenyan fishermen claimed it as their base, though Uganda also asserts its residents were the first. Over time, more fishermen, primarily from Kenya (making up 80% of the population) and some from Uganda and Tanzania (20%), converged on Migingo. The primary allure is the abundance of Nile perch in the surrounding waters, a valuable species introduced in the 1950s. This lucrative fish, which can fetch up to $300 for two pounds of premium fillets, transformed the barren rock into a boomtown. Living on the island provides fishermen with unparalleled access to fishing grounds and buyers, minimizing commutes and fuel costs. More than a hundred boats dock daily, offloading their catch to be weighed, sold, and shipped, solidifying Migingo's role as a vital fishing hub.

Despite its economic success, Migingo Island faces numerous challenges and peculiar aspects, including its status as contested territory between Kenya and Uganda. This territorial dispute often complicates travel, requiring visitors to register with authorities and potentially pay unofficial fees. Another unusual element is the presence of piracy; not the romanticized swashbuckling kind, but opportunistic thieves and unscrupulous security personnel who raid boats for fish, engines, and cash, drawn by the high value of Nile perch. The island itself is a miniature city of necessity, featuring restaurants, bars, a pharmacy, brothels, a beauty salon, and even an open-air casino, all serving the fishing community. However, Migingo's prosperity is overshadowed by severe environmental concerns, including overfishing, the impact of invasive species, and rampant pollution. Waste disposal is virtually nonexistent, with trash and sewage often dumped directly into the lake. These overcrowded and unsanitary conditions also pose significant health risks to its inhabitants. Migingo Island thus stands as a stark illustration of the powerful draw of big profits, the fragility of natural resources, the complexities of border disputes, and the remarkable adaptability of people striving to forge a living under the most challenging circumstances.