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This South Florida Beach Town Is Straight Out Of A Norman Rockwell Painting

Published 12 hours ago8 minute read

As a rule of thumb, any destination that includes the phrase “by-the-sea” in its name is somewhere you want to visit. Similar to the effect of a Southern double name, “by-the-sea” communities are inherently charming and tend to respect tradition. They’re quiet but never boring, cheerfully bustling but not overcrowded. The idyllic South Florida beach hamlet Lauderdale-By-The-Sea offers all of these things and more.

Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

The bridge from Fort Lauderdale into Lauderdale-By-The-Sea is like a portal to vacation world. Cross over, and suddenly ho-hum drugstores and fast-food restaurants transform into vibrant shops and cafes. The streets become lined with twinkle lightwrapped palm trees, and the extra-wide sidewalks are speckled with outdoor dining tables and flip-flop-wearing locals. The change of pace is palpable. The sun seems to shine a little brighter, giving everything a candy-coated gleam, and the soft breeze holds the faintest scent of saltwater. The only thing to do is exhale and obey the town’s tagline: “Relax...you’re here.

Unlike other coastal destinations that easily succumb to high-rise condos, touristy restaurants, and run-of-the-mill souvenir shops, Lauderdale-By-The-Sea understands that growth doesn’t always equal progress. The community celebrated its 75th birthday in 2024. And in another 75, they hope to look and feel largely the same.

“So many places in South Florida are growing,” says town manager Linda Connors. “Miami wants to be Hong Kong, Fort Lauderdale wants to be Miami, and Pompano Beach wants to be Fort Lauderdale. Everyone hopes to grow, but we don’t; we try to keep what we have but make it better.”

Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Ten years ago, Lauderdale-By-The-Sea took strides to do exactly that by carrying out a series of upgrades. They widened sidewalks to accommodate more outdoor dining, replaced pavers in public spaces, added a plaza to the center of Commercial Boulevard, brought multicolored Adirondack chairs and umbrellas to Anglin’s Square, and came up with a new logo. “We gave ourselves a face-lift and started marketing the town, and it’s been nonstop ever since,” Connors says. Today, Anglin’s Square is the area’s destination for major holiday events (including a spectacular Christmas tree lighting) as well as for bimonthly dance lessons, live music, and beginner’s yoga—all completely free for anyone who happens to pass by.

To help preserve the community’s character, they also implemented lowrise legislation in its charter, mandating that no new structures over 33 feet tall can be built. At the same time, business owners were encouraged to embrace, and in some cases return to, the midcentury modern style of many of the original buildings. Retro renovated boutique hotels like High Noon Beach Resort, Driftwood Beach Club, and Plunge Beach Resort are just a few examples.

For every new development this place considers, Connors says they regularly think back to another motto: Small is big. “We’re trying to keep the small-town feel, so that’s always at the forefront of our minds,” she says. At just 1.5 square miles in area, Lauderdale-By-The-Sea is very walkable. If you don’t fancy taking a stroll, you can easily secure a rental from Big Cat Bikes or request a ride with Circuit-By-The-Sea, a free golf cart-like shuttle that operates similarly to other ride-sharing services and runs seven days a week.

The grilled shrimp over spicy papaya at Delacaseas Cafe features local fruit. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Life in Lauderdale-By-The-Sea revolves around Commercial Boulevard, a lively half-mile stretch of restaurants and other businesses that runs from the Intracoastal Waterway (which is marked by the bridge that separates it from Fort Lauderdale) until it ends at the Atlantic Ocean. At the western terminus is Blue Moon Fish Co., a white-tablecloth dockside seafood spot. Although they’re open for lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch is well worth the wait. The all-you-can-eat experience spares no expense, offering diners delicacies including Alaskan snow crab legs and fresh-shucked oysters; prime rib; and a towering dessert bar that’s piled with parfaits, profiteroles, and mini pies.

At Mickey’s Downtown, the eclectic menu includes the Mixed Grill platter. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Venture farther down the street for a global culinary journey at places like Uptown Keese’s Greek & Mediterranean Food, Basilic Vietnamese Grill, and Ciao Ammore Trattoria. At Frenchy’s Table, chef-owner Edith Barthelemy delights customers with dishes that she learned to prepare at her parents’ bed-and-breakfast in France. Locals swear by the pan-seared Duck Breast Magret. For another unique dining experience, go to Mickey’s Downtown for Mediterranean-inspired cuisine from Jerusalem-raised chef-owner Mickey Josephs, as well as evening entertainment from talented dueling pianists. Start with Dalia’s Trio, a smorgasbord that includes house-made hummus, baba ghanoush, Israeli chopped salad, pita bread, and some of the lightest, most flavorful falafel you’ll ever try.

Aruba Beach Cafe

Aruba Beach Cafe has been a favorite since 1983.

Aruba Beach Cafe

Aruba Beach Cafe has waterside seating.
Aruba Beach Cafe has been a favorite since 1983. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Aruba Beach Cafe has waterside seating. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

If you want to be at the center of it all, join the crowds at Aruba Beach Cafe, located right on the shore adjacent to Anglin’s Square. Live music and delicious drinks bolster the jovial atmosphere. Dig your toes in the sand while sipping a mai tai and munching on the restaurant’s famous Bimini Bread with Aruba Glaze and whipped honey butter.

Lauderdale-By-The-Sea is the type of place where everything feels just a little dreamier than day-to-day life. But nowhere is quite as stunning as Sea Watch on the Ocean. Perched on a bluff about 50 yards from the water, the classic Old Florida seafood restaurant has been a local special-occasion standout since 1974. Generations of families return year after year to request their regular tables in the cozy, window-wrapped Captain’s Room. Start with the Boathouse Baked Oysters, and finish with a refreshing slice of Key lime pie. Linger here, and you might be lucky enough to catch one of the area’s best nighttime shows—a distant thunderstorm brewing over the ocean with flashing lightning bolts periodically illuminating the dark, inky sky.

Gold Coast Scuba and Blu3 provide guided snorkeling and diving excursions. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Besides Commercial Boulevard, the only other key street to know in the area is El Mar Drive. The major thoroughfare runs parallel to the sea (el mar) and is home to many beachfront rental properties. Getting to the water in Lauderdale-By-The-Sea is as easy as stepping off your patio or finding one of the seven public beach access points that are spread out over just a mile.

El Mar Drive is a scenic oceanfront road that’s great for cruising on a bike. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

A day lounging in the sand can be nice, but you’d be remiss to stay out of the waves, especially considering the town’s distinction as Florida’s beach-diving capital. Venture out on the Anglin’s Pier Reef Snorkel Trail (best accessed from the Datura Avenue beach portal) to snorkel around three coral reefs that are within 100 yards of the shore. If you’re looking to dive a bit deeper, schedule an excursion with Gold Coast Scuba and Blu3. Using special equipment, you’ll learn to breathe at depths of up to 30 feet, giving you the opportunity to get up close and personal with rays; nurse sharks; sea turtles; and fish in every shape, size, and color. 

Natural flora lines the beaches. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

Take a mental picture of your animal encounters, or marvel at the work of a professional at Gug Underwater Gallery, where photographer Chris Gug displays otherworldly large-format images of mystifying sea life—from microscopic plankton to great white sharks—found in oceans across the planet. After traveling the globe and living on his boat for years, Gug chose Lauderdale-By-The-Sea as his home base. “When we settled on coming back to the U.S., where better than the shore-diving capital of America, where I have access to a coral reef in my backyard every day?” he says.

Chris Gug, owner of Gug Underwater Gallery, has been a marinelife photographer for more than 20 years. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

The water is a way of life here, and the area has gone to great lengths to protect its biggest natural resource. The sandy shores are combed for seaweed and trash nightly, which earned the town a Blue Wave certification. A pioneering program that included planting more than 200,000 sea oats over a 2.4-mile expanse has created a self-sustaining dune system and inspired several nearby communities to follow suit.

In fact, the beaches are so hospitable that they’re an ideal location for female loggerhead sea turtles to lay their eggs. During the season from March to October, the shoreline is pockmarked with turtle nests that are roped off with pink tape to keep beachgoers from unknowingly trampling them.

High Noon Beach Resort reflects mid-century modern style. Credit:

Robbie Caponetto

You won’t find any 30-floor high rises in Lauderdale-By-The-Sea, meaning you can rest assured nothing will block your sacred view of the water. In fact, no building in the entire town can be built over four stories tall. Instead, family-owned boutique hotels and charming beachfront condos are the speed. The town is home to 35 different accommodations sprinkled along oceanfront El Mar Drive and its surrounding streets.

Plunge Beach Resort effortlessly combines retro touches with modern amenities in resort-style rooms, as well as adult-only bungalows. The property also includes a coffee shop and café called Bean & Barnacle, a poolside bar, and a hip gastropub. Other great beachfront options include Tropic Seas Resort Motel, Tides Inn Hotel, and High Noon Resort. After serving the area for 60 years, High Noon Resort recently underwent a major renovation to maintain its idyllic setting. Lounge by the pool under a palm frond umbrella, then head just outside the gate to the beach. The resort offers hotel rooms, as well as one- and two-bedroom efficiency apartments where you’ll be comfortable for as long as you’d like to stay.

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Southern Living
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