For over a decade, Dutch fashion designer Tessa Koops has been producing expressive womenswear that blends bold prints with feminine silhouettes. Known in the Netherlands for her signature use of colour and nostalgia-infused designs, Koops has built a loyal following of confident women who embrace personality in their wardrobes. Now, as the brand explores international growth, including markets like the US, Germany and Spain, the designer’s philosophy of individuality takes on broader relevance.

At her boutique on Herenstraat in Amsterdam, things are anything but dull. Between walls of vivid prints and vintage furnishings, Koops is right at home, accompanied by her three cats, Floyd, Tartufo and Babybel. FashionUnited sat down with the designer to learn more about her brand’s essence, her creative process, and her outlook on fashion’s evolving landscape.

"The word 'joyful' may seem lighthearted, but I've noticed it genuinely makes people happy," she begins. "Clothing influences your state of mind; it can amplify your mood and how you want to express yourself." This philosophy forms the foundation of her designs: clothing that is not only beautiful but also contributes to how you interact with the world and how you feel.

Koops' collections don't focus on microtrends, yet they remain contemporary. "Fashion moves, and I move too." She emphasizes that her designs are intended for women who dare to deviate from the crowd and stay true to their own style. "I don't make bold clothing, but my clothing is worn by bold, strong women," she explains. "Individuality and personality are woven into my designs. Women feel confident in my clothing because they're not necessarily following the latest trends, but rather enhancing their own style."

In a world where androgynous and unisex fashion are gaining ground, Koops maintains a balance between femininity and contrasts. She also sees her designs as complements to other, more understated brands and draws inspiration from the 1970s, an era that, according to her, carries a true "retro vibe" and nostalgia. This is reflected in the prints and silhouettes she creates: from flared trousers and vests to puff-sleeved blouses and long wrap dresses that women can wear with both edge and chic. "Women of today love to wear sturdy boots with a dress, instead of elegant pumps. That's something I always keep in mind when designing. For me, the dress is and always will be an eternal hit."

For Koops, the creative process almost always begins with the print or the quality of the fabric. "It almost always starts with the print," she explains. "When I see a print, I think about which garment it suits. The fabric determines whether it becomes a flowing dress or a bold jacket." Her collection consists of a mix of her own designed prints and carefully selected patterns from print houses within Europe. These prints are specially recolored, altered, adapted, and enlarged to give them a unique character. "Each season, I work with color palettes that appeal to me, such as warm tones in the fall or fresh blue-green combinations for summer," she says.

Koops also still loves working on samples herself, often cutting her own to see how fabrics work together, making the process very hands-on. "I don't work with technical drawings; I design by feel. Working from a drawing is often not a circular process, while a woman has three-dimensionality." This further adds a personal touch: "I think the personal aspect is very important. Personal attention in all areas. I didn't choose to call my brand something like 'Bombari,' for example. My name is my brand."

What does the future hold for Tessa Koops? "We are working on expansion in Europe, with a focus on Germany and Spain. It's a steady process because I believe in sustainable growth. America remains a dream, a flagship boutique in New York and Los Angeles would be amazing."

With future collections, Tessa draws inspiration from Spain, a country that inspires her both professionally and personally. The Spanish lifestyle and culture, where ‘flaneren’ (a Dutch term for strolling to see and be seen) is an art in itself, perfectly aligns with the DNA of her designs: bold, yet refined, and always with boutique flair. In addition to international ambitions, a social and sustainable vision also plays an increasingly important role in her brand: "Not so much in my designs as in the attitude towards clothing, how we deal with it."

Tessa Koops remains true to her vision: designing clothes for women who want to embrace life with individuality and joy. Her mix of vibrant prints, flowing fabrics, and personal approach makes her brand popular with both retailers and consumers. "With my brand, I hope to offer women, and mostly creative women, a sense of playfulness. Playfulness can continue to surprise you, and gives you character."