Let’s cut right to it: this was one of Kim Jones’ strongest collections in his six years as the artistic director of Dior Men.

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In his past oeuvre for the French brand, he’s been known for his predilections of a louche silhouette and pushing a look that blends dressy with dressed down, or employing the use of couture-like techniques to otherwise quotidian separates in an effort to elevate each piece to a level of art. Yet, in his fall/winter 2025 show, the focus sat squarely on his delivery of clothes that were made for the modern dandy.

Oh, and what glorious clothes he sent down the runway! Inspired by Monsieur Dior’s Ligne H collection, the tailoring that walked the runway were severe and pared back of colour. Black, white, greys and the occasional ballet slipper-pink made up most of the looks, allowing the focus to fall on the sumptuous fabrics and sharp cuts.

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Trousers were billowed out in stiff taffeta, as if resembling one of Dior’s own famously-loved ball skirts. Daywear gets invigorated with light-as-air satins, with little strips of sequinned cotton hanging off of cotton work shirts, or grounded in embossed leather. The pink jacket on the fourth look that featured a giant bow in the back would certainly steal glances should it be worn on the Oscars’ red carpet next month.

And that stunning coat in all of its silver sequinned and deftly-molded voluminous glory that closed the show? Sublime.

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This season has seen menswear designers return en masse to maximalism—was this a collective bid to stoke consumer excitement amidst sluggish sales figures?—so Jones’ designs felt radical in that he embraced rigor and strict precision.

This wasn’t quiet luxury per se, as evident in the dramatic Dior-branded ribbon-like visors or the way that many trousers started with a nipped-in waistline before billowing out at the hips, but Jones found a pathway that balanced minimalist lines with invigorating new ideas to get shoppers back through the door. These are clothes that will look fabulous now, or twenty years from now.

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“Ultimately, in this collection, we wanted to say something about now,” Jones said in a statement enclosed with the show notes. “We wanted to go back to the roots and concentrate on the quintessence of the House.”

If you strip away the flowers and the paillettes, the House that Dior built is essentially based on two things: a respect for what the customer yearned to wear now, and a search for modernity.

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Modernity means so many things to so many different people. It changes and morphs and evolves as time ticks on by. It’s a mystique that fashion designers consistently chase season after season, and while Dior himself found that flash all those years back when Carmel Snow declared how his dresses had “such a New Look”, modernity is an ideal that so many strive towards and few achieve.

This season, Jones is one of the talented, contemporary few.