January 29th, 2025

Confirming the rumors that had been circulating for months, . This appointment, confirmed by the house and its parent company OTB, marks the beginning of a new chapter for the brand, following the departure of after ten years of creative direction, during which he transformed the house and contributed to its commercial growth. Galliano has left behind a legacy at Margiela that Martens is now called to continue, while also maintaining , another brand owned by OTB. Renzo Rosso, president of OTB Group, expressed full confidence in Martens, praising his exceptional talent and vision, describing him as the natural successor in the evolution of the house, following founder Martin Margiela and Galliano. This appointment comes at , which continues to thrive in a challenging luxury market. Known for his avant-garde silhouettes and unconventional constructions, the Belgian designer brings with him a wealth of experience.

A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Martens immediately gained recognition under the guidance of Jean Paul Gaultier, before making a name for himself with , where he served as creative director for over a decade. During his tenure, he turned the brand into a cult following by mixing classic tailoring with streetwear and introducing historical references in an irreverent way. After his departure from the brand, the brand unfortunately closed, but this news was Martens' design philosophy is based on a deconstructivist approach, a characteristic he attributes to his background in interior architecture. His ability to reinterpret and reconstruct garments has earned him critical acclaim and a reputation as one of the most inventive designers in fashion. His work often , a trait that perfectly aligns with the DNA of Maison Margiela, which has always been a reference point in design innovation. Martens’ arrival at Margiela coincides with a period of sustained growth for the brand. Under Galliano’s direction, the house not only , but also expanded its global presence, with around , 43 of which are in Asia. According to estimates, the brand’s revenue is nearing $500 million, driven mainly by prêt-à-porter collections and a strong online presence. Fragrances and eyewear contribute an additional $200 million annually, making the brand a true commercial and creative powerhouse within the group.

Martens' appointment also underscores OTB's commitment to – one of the strategies consistently followed by Renzo Rosso that have contributed to the growth of his group. Rosso’s long admiration for Martens , when the designer was invited to create a capsule collection for Diesel Red Tag. This collaboration proved to be a precursor to Martens’ appointment as full-time creative director of Diesel in 2020, a role in which he restored the cult brand to the success it had enjoyed in the early 2000s. The challenge awaiting Martens at Maison Margiela is not a small one. Galliano’s tenure culminated in the Spring 2024 Artisanal collection, that won over critics and reaffirmed Margiela's leadership in the world of haute couture. But if anyone is capable of meeting such expectations, it is Martens, who already gave us a glimpse of his talent in Haute Couture when he designed as a guest designer in 2021. With Martens at the helm, Maison Margiela seems poised to continue its tradition of redefining the possibilities of fashion, reaching new creative and commercial heights.