Philippe Paubert homed in on simpler, more casual silhouettes this season in line with what he felt was a market need. Plain fabrics in earthy shades and loose fits made up a greater part of his spring collection for Ungaro, which was inspired by France’s coastal landscapes and had a breezy feel while remaining true to the brand.

Sandy tones and olive greens were used for a canvas jacket with fringe details and a work shirt, while chino-style pants were loose, with deep front pleats and slightly cropped. Jackets were slightly oversize and worn straight on the body, with low lapels and an ‘80s feel, and many were double-breasted. Touches of violet, on linen pants or a light wool suit, added depth, while prints of vegetation like olive leaves and sea flora were done as outlines, as if drawn by hand, for a fresher touch that was also accentuated by the textures of many of the fabrics and the footwear selection, made up of loafers and sandals. A handful of sportier pieces included a gray bomber in a coated, crinkled fabric and a sweatshirt that read “Provence Lovers.”

For eveningwear, which remains a significant part of the label’s men’s business, versatility was also key. Also with less fitted silhouettes, a white tuxedo jacket had a detachable hood, while others had tone-on-tone embellishments on the lapels. A collarless black jacket had a layered front and a curved edge, while a range of crisp white shirts offered a multitude of collar shapes for remaining sharp without the need for a tie, summing up the casual yet classic stance.