Titan Watches Refocus: Precision Takes Precedence Over Thinness

Published 1 month ago4 minute read
David Isong
David Isong
Titan Watches Refocus: Precision Takes Precedence Over Thinness

Titan's watchmaking division is charting an ambitious course, with its long-standing Edge sub-brand and the newer Stellar line taking center stage. The company's recent advancements offer a glimpse into its broader strategy to innovate in both design and precision, challenging established norms in the global watch industry.

The Stellar line, though only two years old, has quickly become a key player in Titan's premium push. Its latest iteration, Stellar 3.0, boasts several impressive features in its limited-edition models. These include an in-house wandering-hours complication, a sophisticated mechanism where traditional hands are replaced by a rotating satellite system, offering a unique time display. Furthermore, the Stellar 3.0 introduces Grade 5 titanium cases, a first for the brand, alongside striking dial designs. Reflecting Titan's premium aspirations, these models are priced between ₹96,000 and ₹1.8 lakh. Kuruvilla Markose, the newly appointed CEO of Titan’s watches division, highlighted the success of this strategy, noting that "Sales of our automatics are doubling year-on-year."

Towards the end of September, Titan also unveiled the latest iteration of its iconic Edge sub-brand, known for its ultra-slim profile since its original launch in 2002. The new Edge Ultra Slim, priced at ₹75,000, pushes the boundaries of thinness even further. At an impressive 3.3 mm, it is the thinnest Edge watch ever, shaving off 0.2 mm from its predecessor. This achievement was made possible by utilizing one of the world’s thinnest quartz movements and integrating a floating-disc hand just 160 microns thin – thinner than two human hairs – to display time in ten-minute intervals. Markose revealed the extensive effort behind this feat, stating, "It took us about three years to shave off half a millimetre."

Titan's pursuit of thinness places it among an elite group of watchmakers who have historically engaged in the "battle for thinness." Brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, and Bulgari have decades of experience miniaturizing components to create ultra-thin watches. Piaget's 3.65 mm Altiplano 900P once set benchmarks, only to be surpassed by Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo series, which consistently set new records for thinness. Titan joined this league in 2021 with the 5.85 mm-thin Edge Mechanical, powered by the 2.2 mm Edge Calibre 903. More recently, Richard Mille's RM UP-01, at 1.75 mm, and Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, currently the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at a mere 1.70 mm, demonstrate the extreme limits of this engineering challenge.

This quest for extreme thinness mirrors a similar period in the 1970s and '80s during the boom of quartz technology. Japanese brands like Seiko and Citizen, along with Swiss counterparts such as Longines and Concord, produced exceptionally thin cases, leading to the development of ultra-thin movements by specialists like Jean Lassale. Concord's Delirium series even featured watches approximately a millimeter thick. However, Markose notes that the pursuit of ultra-thinness can sometimes become "comical and self-indulgent," citing examples like the 0.98 mm-thin Concord Delirium IV, which was too fragile to wear, and the ₹4.5 crore Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, which comes with wearability caveats. Titan aims to avoid this territory. While the Edge Mechanical was a "showcase of what we could do," Markose clarifies, "our goal is to make watches that are both practical and wearable."

Looking ahead, Titan's roadmap for the Edge focuses on accuracy and efficiency, rather than solely on mechanical thinness. The company intends to push the limits of precision through quartz innovation, an area Markose believes holds significant untapped potential. In the wider watch world, this pursuit of ultra-precise quartz, often termed high-accuracy quartz (HAQ) or super quartz, has a dedicated following. While most quartz watches oscillate at 32,768 Hz, HAQ movements achieve extraordinary precision (within a few seconds a year) through advanced techniques like thermocompensation and meticulous regulation, surpassing even refined mechanical calibres. Examples include Grand Seiko’s 9F (±10 seconds a year), Breitling’s SuperQuartz, and Citizen’s Caliber 0100, the most precise commercially produced watch, rated at ±1 second per year with an oscillator running at 8,388,608 Hz.

Closer to home, Titan is developing its own path towards greater efficiency and precision. Markose explains that much of their current R&D centers on micro-motors, where individual motors power separate modules instead of a single shared drive. He describes this internal project as "synchronised analogue micro-motors," likening it to an orchestra where each section performs independently yet in harmony. This approach, while distinct from traditional thermocompensated HAQ movements, is Titan’s engineering route to achieving enhanced stability, accuracy, and design flexibility. For the Edge, this signifies a quiet evolution: from being the thinnest watch Titan could build to becoming the most precise it can make, always with the wearer in mind. Markose affirms, "The idea is to keep pushing the envelope — with new materials, micro-motors, and precision engineering — but without losing sight of the wearer. We have many irons in the fire."

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