Greg Mohr is dressed in a suit and tie and standing outside of the Alston, his luxurious new steakhouse opening soon in Downtown Chicago. On a tour through the space, Mohr says that the 350-seat restaurant, with its sweeping panoramic views of State Street, a members-only club, and a menu from chef Jenner Tomaska, is the most expensive restaurant he’s opened.

Chicago steakhouse legends like Gene & Georgetti, Morton’s, and Gibsons have seen competitors come and go through the years. Maple & Ash in Gold Coast is the most recent to taste success thanks to a lavish buildout and a devil-may-care attitude that tells diners this steakhouse isn’t just for titans of industry attempting to broker business deals. The Alston will take a more reserved approach, trying to marry tradition with modernity.

“I feel like restaurants like this are the new clubs,” Mohr says. “And you know, I think it’s beautiful.”

Opening Friday, May 30, at 750 N. State Street, the Alston is located on the third floor of the newly built One Chicago building next to the large Whole Foods that debuted in 2022 near Chicago and State. The space features plenty of flowers, a digital screen affixed to the dining room’s massive ceiling, and a private club with a special menu and other perks, including a concierge.

Chef Tomaska’s Lincoln Park restaurant, Esme, earned a Michelin star by working with local creatives and blending art and cuisine. At the Alston, Tomaska wants to lean into French technique and bring a fine dining touch to the type of tableside presentations that are cornerstones at many steakhouses. A South Side native who’s worked at a steakhouse, Tomaska doesn’t want to alienate diehard fans of the genre; the bros making steakdiner bets will feel comfy. There are no plans for a tasting menu at the Alston (at least for the general public; club members may eventually get a special treat).

Above the dining room, the giant digital screen brings the ceiling to life by allowing management to set the mood with whatever images they desire. They could add clouds or raindrops. Or they could add special messages for private events such as corporate buyouts. Mohr warns they want to be subtle and that “it’s not meant to be Vegas-style.” The art uses a platform called Apollo, which Tomaska describes as Spotify for artists. Many hotels use Apollo, which allows local artists a way to find compensation versus having their work used without their permission.

The outdoor terrace features a view of Holy Name Cathedral. Mohr sees the outdoor space as a boisterous spot for cocktails during the summer. There are plans to host DJs and live music on the terrace: “We’ll really encourage people to stay and have a drink after dinner and treat this place as a good place to hear good music.”

Tomaska says the space reminds him of a restaurant you’d find in New York, a bustling space inside a downtown building: “There’s nothing like it, it’s insane,” he says.

Dining habits certainly have changed as red meat consumption decreases — at least in comparison to when steakhouses began emerging in the early- to mid-1900s. At the same time, the modern diner is embracing a come-as-you-are attitude, pairing Jordans with button-down shirts instead of donning sports coats and ties. With the Alston, Mohr’s Fifty/50 Restuarant Group and Tomaska seek to challenge beefy expectations.

While Mohr hasn’t shared how much it cost to build the restaurant, they don’t have an unlimited budget. It’s not lost on Mohr that Donald Trump’s tariffs threaten to make a pricey night out even more expensive. While Tomaska is a big supporter of American beef, including domestic wagyu, which will make up most of the steak menu. Still, there’s no substitute for Japanese A5 and the decadent Japanese beef will appear on the menu. The tariffs will also make imported wine more expensive. The Alston tapped veteran sommelier Ken Fredrickson, who’s worked at Charlie Trotter’s, to compile the wines.

“Ken wrote the list, and then about a week and a half later — after we were like, ‘yeah, this is gonna be awesome,’ — [he came back] and was like, yeah, let’s make some changes,’” Mohr says.

The Alston, 750 N. State Street, opening Friday, May 30.