In recent times, Chicago has been once again embracing its meatpacking history with a rush of new steakhouse openings. Trend pieces are no doubt on their way about the allure of comfort food and a need to return to the simple life. However, that’s not the formula deployed at the Alston, an opulent steakhouse that debuts on Friday, May 30, on the third floor of the 971-foot-tall One Chicago, a $750 million skyscraper built in 2022. This is the same building that houses Gold Coast’s Whole Foods.

The food’s from Jenner Tomaska, the James Beard Award finalist behind Esme in Lincoln Park. Tomaska is showing discipline at Alston, embracing his new role in developing a steakhouse menu that can appeal to the masses without sacrificing his avant-garde style that brought Esme a Michelin Star. The hope is that Tomaksa can incorporate elements of fine dining, including superior service, quality ingredients, and cheffy techniques, to show Chicago that a great steakhouse is about more than just keeping the juices in the chops. Tableside preparations include a bread cart and a duck press with the poultry carved in front of diners. The Alston is supposed to represent Midwestern steakhouses crossed with nouvelle French cuisine.

The meat is prime and dry-aged, cooked over charcoal. Wagyu comes from American, Japanese, and Aussie sources. They range from $55 for a six-ounce dry-aged filet to $260 for a 16-ounce, 60-day dry-aged American wagyu chop, called the S.W. Chairman’s Cut. That comes with a butter infused with Red Boat Vietnamese fish sauce.

An arsenal of sauces is available to accent the selections. A rack of Dover sole is a tribute to Esme’s tasting menu and its unique showstopper. Salt-baked trout is also available. A selection of pastas and salads should sate vegetarians. A Members Tower costs $300 and comes with a dozen oysters, four spot prawns, three razor clams, two scallops, a half-pound of King crab, and a whole cold water lobster.

Fifty/50 Restaurant Group, which also runs Kindling inside the Willis Tower, continues its downtown push. Visitors will find an assortment of textures used throughout the space. Don’t blink, your eyes aren’t deceiving you — the art on the ceiling of the main dining room changes. There’s a digital projection screen that can stream a variety of art. It’s a way Tomaska can bring a touch of Esme to the world of beef.

There’s a wine cellar, with selections curated by Charlie Trotter’s alum Ken Frederickson, and tons of space for private events. A terrace with beautiful views of downtown Chicago will debut later this summer. Management hopes the outdoor seating will be more cocktail-focused, and there are plans for live music. There’s also a members-only club which is downright intimate compared to the main dining room. That will come with a special menu.

Walk through the space below and check out select dishes in the photos below.

The Alston, 750 N. State Street, third floor, opening on Friday, May 30, reservations via OpenTable.