Shefali Jariwala's death spotlights world of anti-ageing treatments built on big claims, little science
There is little scientific evidence that the molecule, approved for indications such as liver cirrhosis or post-chemotherapy toxicity, lightens skin or makes anyone look youthful. However, off-label glutathione use, especially in the injectable form, has become a rage among celebrities and others chasing “glass skin”.
That most anti-ageing skin treatments rest on borderline unsubstantiated claims is what makes the trend most dangerous, some senior dermatologists point out. However, manufacturers, social media influencers, and some cosmetologists—a term not even recognised by the regulator for doctors—continue to promote them aggressively.
Anti-ageing treatments can include a broad spectrum of substances, from antioxidant supplements and growth hormone boosters to testosterone therapy, coenzyme NAD+ infusions, and other metabolic enhancers.
Moreover, many products marketed for age-defying properties get sold as supplements or nutraceuticals, that is, products supposedly providing health benefits beyond basic nutrition. They are not medicines governed under the drug rules. Instead, the Food Safety and Standards (Health Supplements, Nutraceuticals, Food for Special Dietary Use, Food for Special Medical Purpose, and Prebiotic and Probiotic Food) Regulations, 2022, govern these products, which claim to support wellness.
“While some of these therapies are grounded in emerging science, many remain poorly regulated, especially when accessed outside of clinical settings or prescribed without thorough health evaluations,” says Dr Mahnaz Jahan Begum, a cosmetic plastic and hair transplant surgeon based in Kolkata.
Dr Chytra V. Anand, dermatologist and founder of Kosmoderma and SkinQ Dermatologist, agrees. “There has been a dangerous rise in self-prescribed anti-ageing fads, from unregulated hormones and peptides to excessive supplements and intravenous drips. Not just misuse of injectables, people use glutathione and collagen, among other such products, casually, without understanding the long-term risks,” she said.
Experts underline that getting approval for a nutraceutical in the country is far less cumbersome than getting a licence to make a drug.
Such products, often costing thousands of rupees for a single session, are available at most pharmacy stores, as well as online, and hence, widely used through self-medication.
In this report, ThePrint discusses the currently popular anti-ageing treatments, therapies, and procedures in vogue, and expounds on whether there is enough evidence to back claims often made while promoting them.
Glutathione, a naturally occurring antioxidant in the body, plays a vital role in tissue repair, protein synthesis, and immune system support. It is a tripeptide composed of three amino acids—cysteine, glycine, and glutamic acid—and acts as the primary antioxidant within our cells, protecting them from free radicals.
Used for decades to reduce toxicity after chemotherapy in cancer patients, it has emerged as a shining star in the skincare and beauty industry over the last fifteen years, after the spotlight turned on its anti-melanogenic effect of blocking melanin production. Melanin produces the hair, eye and skin pigmentations.
Glutathione therapy now contains vitamin C, thioctic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, pro-vitamin B3 and B5, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and zinc, among other minerals, considered beneficial for skin.
To maximise its effect, glutathione treatment often comes as an intravenous drip once or twice a week. It has become more popular than Botox treatment, once the favourite for reducing signs of ageing.
Many dermatologists offer glutathione treatment to achieve skin that glows from within, whereas others call its use that way “overstated and fraught with risks”.
“The use of glutathione for skin whitening became a rage after a small study involving a handful of women in the Philippines showed that it turned their melanin from brown to red, not white,” points out Dr Kabir Sardana, the dermatology department head at the government-run RML hospital in Delhi.
There has not been a single good clinical trial proving the efficacy of the compound or showing it can turn people with a darker skin tone fairer, but its wide use continues among those who want “glowing skin”, says Dr Sardana.
There is also a long list of serious side effects of glutathione injections, including skin rash and Stevens-Johnson Syndrome, a rare but severe disorder of the skin and mucous membranes, often triggered by a reaction.
Most reported complications, however, are minor and temporary, such as swelling, bruising, or allergic reactions. Serious risks, such as vascular occlusion, remain exceptionally rare and typically occur due to improper technique or untrained personnel, not from the injection material or medication.
In some cases, the compound can trigger anaphylaxis—the most severe allergic reaction that can become life-threatening.
Some other clinicians point out that whereas the compound is generally safe when used by qualified medical practitioners within the recommended dosage, people under unqualified practitioners can exceed its prescribed limits or use, leading to serious health risks.
“As per regulatory guidelines, a safe dosage typically ranges between 600mg and 1.2 grams per day. Unfortunately, in pursuit of faster or more visible results, some individuals get into glutathione misuse, taking higher doses, which can turn toxic, and potentially, dangerous,” underlines Dr Mandeep Singh, head, plastic dermatology and cosmetic surgery, Paras Health, Gurugram.
This procedure involves using blood from an individual to stimulate healing and tissue regeneration in that individual as an intervention to stimulate collagen production, improve skin texture, and potentially, reduce wrinkles and signs of ageing.
It involves drawing blood, separating the platelets (which contain growth factors), and injecting the concentrated platelet-rich plasma into the targeted area.
However, Sardana warns that it—like glutathione—is also not approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for anti-ageing treatment and has not shown such benefits in ‘double-blind’ studies.
NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a coenzyme naturally found in body cells, playing a key role in energy production and other processes. However, doctors say, NAD stores in our bodies start to decline around young adulthood and continue to decline as people age.
‘NAD plus’ is a compound containing a molecule, which has been emerging as a popular treatment offered for slowing signs of ageing, including pigmentation, wrinkles and cognition-related issues, since animal studies showed that it can slow the natural process of ageing.
NAD supplementation is presumed to replenish these stores. Evidence from human studies, however, proves its limited efficacy due to small sample sizes, researchers found in a 2023 literature review.
These include lasers and radiofrequency (RF) technologies, widely used by estheticians (skincare professionals) in anti-ageing treatments to improve skin texture, reduce wrinkles, and tighten the skin.
The devices apply calibrated heat energy through small micro-needles or a non-surgical device, thought to support body healing by triggering an enhanced production of collagen.
This does help rejuvenate the skin and treat scars, says Sardana, adding that there is a high degree of evidence to prove its efficacy.
“We at RML have histological data that shows it works. It is the single intervention backed by strong evidence to show its effectiveness, but one must know basics and advanced knowledge across disorders to use it,” adds the senior dermatologist.
Anand, however, says the real harm is not the treatment, but its misuse.
“Youth is never worth risking your health. Always seek doctor-led care, not social media shortcuts,” she advises.
(Edited by Madhurita Goswami)
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