In 1914, American fashion designers began to challenge U.S. consumers’ reliance on European styles, a movement documented by WWD that helped establish New York City’s Garment District and Seventh Avenue as a hub for American talent. Americans succeeded, with designers Donald Brooks, Bobby Breslau and Clovis Ruffin making pivotal contributions to its success.
Donald Brooks (1928-2005) one of Seventh Avenue’s trailblazer, gained WWD’s attention in 1951. At Adler & Adler in 1955, he unveiled “Village,” a capsule wardrobe of city and country dresses, adding to innovation in women’s wardrobes. He defined American sportswear as “fashion that keeps pace with people on the move.” Brooks pioneered the relaxed look, earning three Coty Awards, and was among the first to feature animal prints on the runway. Known for mixing checks, plaids and animal prints in sophisticated palettes, Brooks helmed his namesake label from 1961 to 1973. A founding member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America he also earned acclaim in stage and film costume.
Bobby Breslau (1942-1987) revolutionized 1970s accessories with his hand crafted leather goods. After assisting Stephen Burrows in the 1960s, his big breakthrough came when Halston commissioned a set of leather pillows, inspiring his iconic slouchy, oversized shoulder bag, made famous by Elsa Perretti. Breslau’s crescent shoulder bag, rolled clutch, and belt bags became must-haves and remain widely copied staples today.
Clovis Ruffin (1946-1992) embodied 1970s youth culture with his affordable knit fashions. In 1969, his shrunken baby-knit T-shirt made WWD’s front page. In 1972 to 1979 he helmed his young contemporary label, Ruffinwear. “I dress an American girl, who hops into coffee shops, works in offices, and needs a different dress daily.” He created affordable, wrap-on, snap-on and pull-on silhouettes that remain fashionable. Expanding into loungewear, Ruffin blended sportswear ease with comfort. Notably, he championed diversity by featuring Black models on his runways.
Brooks, Breslau, and Ruffin are amongst many designers who played vital roles in shaping the legacy of American sportswear. Here is a look back at their contributions.
