Francesca Murri Interview: Breathing New Life into Fiorucci

With a career spanning some of the most iconic names in Italian fashion, Versace, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Givenchy, and Ferragamo, has quietly shaped the visual language of contemporary luxury. In 2023, she took the creative helm at Fiorucci, the legendary Italian label founded in 1967 by Elio Fiorucci. Tasked with revitalizing a brand known for its irreverence and pop spirit, Murri has already presented four collections that pulse with energy, color, and optimism.
Murri’s approach to Fiorucci is equal parts reverence and reinvention. Drawing deeply from the house’s rich archive, she reinterprets its iconic motifs—lips, angels, hearts, through a modern, playful lens. Her debut collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week in September 2023, set the tone for her tenure: a vibrant celebration of joy, freedom, and creativity, all rooted in Fiorucci’s signature DNA. The upcoming “Beatittudo” FW25 collection continued this narrative, inspired by the pursuit of pure happiness and characterized by a bold palette that injects fresh energy into the brand.
Under Francesca Murri, Fiorucci has become a platform for experimentation and dialogue, embracing collaborations with artists and emerging talents from across the creative spectrum. Her vision is about more than clothes; it’s about fostering a community and spreading positive messages that resonate in today’s world. By blending the brand’s storied past with the needs and languages of modern society, Murri is ensuring Fiorucci’s legacy remains as dynamic and relevant as ever.
Below, Francesca Murri discusses with DSCENE’s EIC her creative process, the role of Milan, the power of contrasts, and her hopes for Fiorucci’s future post her Spring Summer 2026 runway show in Milan.

– Milano is where Elio Fiorucci created everything and started dreaming. It’s crucial for me to catch the spirit of the city and put it into a very international narrative. Influences come from everywhere in this place full of art.
– For the collection I asked Janina Zais to work body painting and hair spraying the models to inject the cartoonish approach into the products. I also take inspiration, for the red pois dress, from the Walt Disney character Minnie. For the set design I wanted to use banners that represented the sky and road signs on the ground with totally invented and fantastic elements such as the angel shooting the arrow.
– I play very much with contrasts that are very crucial for the brand. When there’s something basic I apply something unexpected in a very Fiorucci way. And also the contrast played through the association between products and faces is very important. Rock characters with chic products and the opposites work very well.
– I always start by defining the key pillars of the brand and based on the seasonal concept I focus on the ones that help me to push forward the concept. This season the pop, cartoonish approach influenced my way to characterize them.
– In these uncertain moments in which everyone is a bit scared, I wanted send out a positive message by inviting people to make hearts beat again. An ode to love!

– We usually search for innovative materials and this is very important to express the feelings I am having at the beginning of the creative process. The unexpected approach to the usage of the materials can create uniqueness.
– It’s hard for the new projects to find a place in this tough and crowded market. I believe that Fiorucci can have a role in society by creating a platform for collaborations with emerging talents to generate very creative contents not only in fashion but also in art and music.
– I see the project more mature season after season. I hope the market will get better soon to have more opportunities to reach our targeted clients throughout pop ups and stores and give them more chances to experience the brand.
Discover all the Spring Summer 2026 Fiorucci collection looks by Francesca Murri on DSCENE.
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