Dior Showcases its AW25-26 Collection Which Presents a "Dialogue Between Past and Present"
Dior has revealed its latest ready-to-wear collection for autumn-winter 2025-2026, under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
The collection builds on Dior’s heritage while forging connections with the evolution of fashion, blending historical inspirations with modern sensibilities.
Chiuri’s approach positions fashion as a means of transformation. This season, the collection explores the idea of clothing as a medium that affirms cultural, aesthetic and social codes. It revisits significant memories and gestures from Dior’s history, incorporating elements from past creative directors while embracing contemporary design principles.
A key aspect of the collection is the reinterpretation of the white shirt, which Chiuri considers a fundamental piece that challenges gender norms. This element interacts with the legacy of Gianfranco Ferré, Dior’s former Artistic Director, who is referenced throughout the collection. The wardrobe is designed as a space for metamorphosis, incorporating removable collars inspired by the Orlando ruff from Virginia Woolf’s novel Orlando, reinforcing the fluidity of identity and style.
The collection also incorporates theatrical elements, echoing the visual dramaturgy of director Robert Wilson. The runway presentation featured shifting colours and symbolic stage elements, including a swing, a prehistoric bird, craters, and an iceberg, creating a sense of transformation and evolution.
Dior’s rich history is further emphasised through the return of iconic references, including the ‘J’adore Dior’ T-shirt, originally introduced by John Galliano. The collection also revives techniques such as cut-out and appliqué embroidery, juxtaposed with technical jackets. Black velvet ribbons, adorned with baroque pearls, add texture to skirts and dresses, resembling dematerialised crinolines.
Transparency plays a key role, with delicate finishes on shirts contrasting against the structured black felt coats that sculpt the body. Rounded shoulders shape the silhouette, while masculine jackets are paired with bustiers, and the tailcoat makes a return. Lace collars add a touch of historic refinement, while a monochromatic palette of black and white reinforces the collection’s interplay of past and present. Utilitarian elements, including raincoats, are also integrated, ensuring a balance between function and elegance.
Chiuri’s latest collection reflects a vision of femininity that embraces both history and the future, drawing from past influences while reimagining them for contemporary wardrobes. By interweaving eras, aesthetics and narratives, Dior’s autumn-winter 2025-2026 collection continues to explore the possibilities of fashion as a means of self-expression and transformation.
