If you listen carefully after submitting your order on the kiosk at Taste of Changan in Ardmore, you’ll hear the thwack of dough hitting the counter. Their biangbiang noodles are all hand-pulled to order, so-named for their onomatopoeic “bianging” on the table.

Known locally and totally unofficially as “the Chiner,” (Chinese restaurant-diner hybrid), the restaurant is a 1950’s era silver diner, and has all the charm of an employee cafeteria in a factory: bright lights, formica tables, food served in disposable cardboard containers, and a vacuum carafe of complimentary tea. But the staff bring warmth and hospitality with their enthusiasm for guiding you through the menu and bringing you samples. Try the wide hand-pulled biangbiang noodles with pork or vegetables, or any of the lamb dishes served with noodles or bread in a rich lamb bone broth. Come for lunch with friends looking for an authentic experience in the burbs, or grab some serious weeknight takeout.