Slow and steady wins the race. What started as a takeout spot in Franklin Square in 2015 has expanded with another full service restaurant, Brasas Peru Bistro, which recently opened in Huntington village.

After a glow-up of the former Osteria da Nino — adding dark leather banquettes, light wooden ceiling and a cascading floral chandelier over the bar — this Brasas outpost feels cozier than its older sibling to the west. The food, however, remains true to the Peruvian culinary canon.

Start with a mix of cold ceviches ($23) and tiraditos — the Nikkei style ($28), which includes salmon in an ají amarillo and passionfruit tiger’s milk, is a standout. Or try the solterito ($18), Peru’s answer to the chopped salad, made with oversize corn, fava beans, queso fresco, rocoto peppers — and in this case — quinoa. Warm appetizers include the classic papa a la huancaína, composed of sliced boiled potatoes, bits of hard-boiled egg and olives smothered in an amarillo-spiced sauce ($15), as well as salchipapas, or Peruvian-style hot dogs and fries ($15).

For mains, traditional dishes include lomo saltado ($27), or sirloin stir-fried with tomatoes and onions over rice and potatoes, and ají de gallina ($25), or shredded chicken in another yellow pepper cream sauce, this one laced with Parmesan cheese. There are chaufas (from $24), really just the Peruvian moniker for fried rice, highlighting beef, chicken, veggies or fish, as well as seafood mainstays like jalea, a mixed fried seafood plate ($28). Rotisserie chicken (quarter-chickens start at $11) and combo plates starting at $25 round out of the offerings.

Hailing from Lima, Peru, chef-owner Pierre Ocharan attended the French Culinary Institute before obtaining business and finance degrees. "The restaurant concept I always wanted to open was Peruvian," Ocharan said. "It has a lot of fusion — we have Asian, Latin, and Japanese influences, seafood, steaks — all of those together give us so much room to create."

Brasas Peru Bistro Bar, 292 Main St., Huntington, 631-683-4133, brasasperu.com; Open Monday to Thursday from noon to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from noon to 10 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m.