When Nathan Toleman’s Mulberry Group opened Molli at the end of June 2024, it was positioned as a neighbourhood bar and bistro with a technique-heavy yet approachable menu with dishes including pork neck skewers with date puree, fresh casarecce (pasta) with fermented tomato, and flatbread served with shallot custard.

But when Molli and the adjoining deli, cafe and provisions shop Little Molli didn’t gain traction, Toleman, who has opened 24 venues including Top Paddock, Hazel and Liminal, had to face a hard reality: sometimes you build it and they don’t come.

Rather than give up, Toleman and the team are flipping the script, and on Friday April 11, will relaunch Molli and Little Molli. The former will be a more relaxed day-to-night eatery and the latter a pantry and workshop space. Drinks pro Kayla Saito is staying on board, alongside new head chef Caitlin Koether, who was a sous-chef at Bar Tartine in San Francisco for two years, and did a stint at Relae in Copenhagen.

After more than 20 years of opening venues, this was the first time I’ve had to look at one of our own and say, “This isn’t working”. And it wasn’t for lack of effort. We had an incredibly talented opening chef in Aleksis [Kalnins], a beautiful fit-out, a great team and what I believed was a clear vision. But something didn’t land. The feedback from our community was consistent – they were looking for something more relaxed, more accessible, something that just felt right for Abbotsford. So rather than push harder in the wrong direction, we chose to listen – and pivot. Sometimes venues take on a life of their own. Molli told us what it wanted to be and we listened.

Pretty early on. Within the first few months, we weren’t seeing the kind of repeat trade we rely on – people we trust, people who love what we do. I remember someone saying, “I liked it, but I didn’t love it”, and that really stuck with me. It’s not always easy to hear that kind of feedback, but it was honest, and it gave us permission to pause, reflect, realign – and go again. We’ve embraced the idea that you don’t always get it right the first time – what matters is how you respond.

This time the brief was simple: make it generous, warm, relaxed and everyday. We wanted to create a place where people could drop in for a quick coffee, a midweek dinner, or a lazy weekend lunch and feel completely at home. No pressure, no pretence. Confident but not showy. Honest food, thoughtful drinks, and a space that feels genuinely good to be in. We’re not afraid to tear up the script if it means delivering something better for our community.

We didn’t want to throw the baby out with the bathwater, the space has amazing bones and beautiful light. But we did want to soften it and make it more inviting. We pulled back some of the more high-end finishes and added more communal energy: banquettes, high-top tables and a more casual al fresco offering out the front. It’s about making it feel lived-in, a bit more playful and comfortable. Less polished, more human. Our goal was to break down any sense of formality and create a space that felt instantly familiar and welcoming.

Because it’s the truth. And honestly, I think there’s real strength in owning it. I’m proud of the original vision, but I’m even prouder of how we’ve responded. Hospitality is a constant process of learning and evolving. And the market we signed the lease in two years ago doesn’t exist anymore, so we adapted. We simply listened, reflected and made something better. Molli is a better venue now because of that process. Great venues are built on honesty.