One of the world’s most ancient cuisines, Chinese food is nevertheless susceptible to trends. Over the last decade we’ve been swamped by soup dumplings, bowled over by hot pot, and now, here come Yunnan rice noodles.

Open since February, Ten Seconds Yunnan Rice Noodle in Syosset is the latest Chinese culinary salvo to hit Long Island. It was preceded by Deng Ji in Levittown in 2023; both restaurants are links in New York City-based chains and both specialize in the Yunnanese dish called "crossing the bridge noodles," a soup that demands diner participation. 

At Ten Seconds, you’ll get an array of toppings — ham, fish cake, chives, shrimp, corn, quail egg, lettuce and more — plus a tangle of rice noodles and a platter of raw meat or fish. Then the simmering broth (made from pork and pork bones) will be set before you. It’s in a big, insulated bowl so it will continue to simmer while you add the ingredients, first the egg and meat, then whichever toppings strike your fancy and then, finally, the noodles. Wait 10 seconds and the soup is ready to eat.

In addition to classic "crossing the bridge," Ten Seconds offers DIY soups based on sweet-and-sour tomato broth, hot-and-sour "golden" broth and "spicy-extreme heat" broth. Other noodle soups include Sichuan hot pot, green pepper sliced fish soup and a handful of ramen soups (with wheat noodles). There are stir-fried noodles, snacks and starters such as hot and sour cucumber, popcorn chicken, spicy pig ear and crab roe buns.

According to Edward Chen, a server in Syosset, Ten Seconds has multiple stores in the metropolitan area and originated in China where Yunnan Noodles are also popular. He said that his boss, Lucy Song, owns the franchise rights on Long Island and would be opening a second store in Stony Brook. 

Ten Seconds Yunnan Rice Noodles, 336 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-496-8989, order.mealkeyway.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., closed Monday.