Website: https://angelasofmargate.com/

Margate is a seaside town on the Kent coast, and it’s new nickname is Shoreditch on Sea. Why? Because it was decidedly rough and ready – sketchy as – but it has been revitalized as a growing community of arty, cool people have moved here, attracted by the location, the buzz and (let’s be honest) the low property prices.

It is also turning into a bit of a gastronomic hub, and it’s one of the places I love taking a daytrip out of London for. The fact that it takes over an hour and a half to get here by train from the capital puts some of the hordes off. The last two visits we’ve lunched at Sargasso, a natural wine bar nestled in the harbour wall. But this time we headed to Angela’s, a small but perfectly formed seafood restaurant not far from the sea front.

There are two dining rooms: the main one, which is quite small, and then an annex, which is even smaller. Both have their charms. In the annex, where we sat, you could feel you are missing out on the action, but there’s a simplicity and intimacy to it. And the staff service it brilliantly – there’s no danger of getting forgotten.

It’s a blackboard menu, beloved of French bistros, and this works pretty well. Not too many choices, but enough. This is all about fish, so don’t come here if you are looking for something else.

The wine list is one of the highlights, and it’s really well chosen, and the prices are very reasonable. It says that there’s a separate list for rares and single bottles, but this wasn’t available when I asked. I found plenty I wanted to drink, and in the end opted for two bottles, both of which delivered a lot of pleasure. And both were English, and sub-£50.

And this is something to be celebrated about this list: it really focuses on English wine, and those that are featured are well chosen. There’s also a bit of a natural/authentic vibe to the list, which I really appreciate.

The food? This is seafood done well, and not over-complicated. There’s a lot of butter use: the sauces are rich. The cooking is spot on. Mackerel on lentils with a pesto topping is a really good, simple, delicious dish. The other starter, mushrooms on toast, perhaps over-does the butter thing, and is almost too rich. The main course, hake with a decadent bisque sauce and some fennel, was just about perfect.

This isn’t a fancy place, but it just does everything well. Booking essential.

7.5% alcohol. This is cider on red wine skins. Pale pink/orange in colour and gently fizzy. Bright, lively and energetic with high acid and an appley edge to the citrus and cherry fruit, with some lovely tangy notes. Juicy and tart and refreshing, finishing with sour cherry. So good. 9/10 (£34 on the list at Angela’s, Margate)

13.5% alcohol. So good to see a disease resistant ‘PIWI’ being made as a single variety. This is from South Bank vineyard between the Crouch and Blackwater Rivers in Essex, on clay soils. Planted in 2017. 6 months in barrel. This has really nice texture with fresh pear and apple fruit, and even a hint of melon and cherry. Heading in a rich, ripe direction with lovely fruit, and a nice delicate crystalline citrus thread. Such finesse. 93/100 (£43 on the list at Angela’s, Margate)