Contrary to what you may think, the prestigious fair, which takes place in Florence twice a year, isn’t just a playing ground for dapper men prancing around in fitted suits and panama hats. It also delivers true and exciting fashion.

Pitti Uomo has always been a great platform for discovering new talent, and this month’s edition did not disappoint with its carefully curated choice of guest designers. Here are the 4 highlights that made this edition of Pitti Uomo alluring and quite unforgettable.

When it comes to Issey Miyake, pleats are a trademark and design signature. “It’s all I ever wear”, confessed an enthusiastic French guest right before the show started. Homme Plissé Issey Miyake is more of a lifestyle than a trendy fashion brand. The striking show, which took place within the grand Villa Medicea Della Petraia, had plenty to offer stylish men, from reworked sportswear garments to artistic prints and unusual proportions. The show was coupled with an exhibition taking place inside the walls of the Villa, underlining its Tuscan inspiration. What makes the brand successful— and rather popular among fashion enthusiasts —is its emphasis on comfort, color, and individuality.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake (left) and Niccolò Pasqualetti (right) at Pitti Uomo 108

A rising star within Italian fashion, Central Saint Martins graduate Niccolò Pasqualetti —who splits his time between Tuscany, Paris and Milan— delivered a sensual and powerful menswear show, choosing the impressive architecture of Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino designed by Paolo Desideri. Using military codes as a starting point, the Italian designer added eroticism and edge to garments that are often envisaged as clichés of masculinity. His play on gender codes was clever, too, with cheeky skirt trousers and cutouts, as well as sheer effects. Pasqualetti has a unique voice, and getting to show in his native Tuscany felt like a meaningful —and emotional— experience.

Often referred to as PAF, Post Archive Fashion is a label founded by young Korean designers Dongjoon Lim and Sookyo Jeong. Choosing the stark and imposing Stazione Leopolda as their show venue, the design duo offered a fresh and effortless take on tailoring, making the traditional suit seductive for a new generation. Known for its asymmetrical cuts and elevated take on sportswear, PAF is a brand rooted in reality and the everyday. Standout pieces included jackets with shoulder cut-outs, as well as floppy hats and deconstructed trench coats.

Post Archive Fashion (top) and Children of the Discordance (bottom) at Pitti Uomo 108

Founded by Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama, Children of the Discordance has enjoyed a strong cult following for years among menswear aficionados. The collection was influenced by punk, patchwork and a rebellious stance. Presented at Stazione Leopolda, it had a rough, grungy and moody feel, however each piece was quite intricate and exquisitely made. Shikama pushed the short suit as a new proposition for tailoring, while freely mixing evocative prints, such as paisley, graffiti, or bandana. Some of the pieces were so complex and elaborate that it must have taken months making them, yet everything felt loose, effortless and comfortable. It was a confident fashion moment, challenging the current uncertainty and fear that are defining our world.