I Grew Up Making Jam-Here Are My Golden Rules For Perfect Results
Making homemade jam can seem incredibly complicated and intimidating. Do you have to can it? What if you don’t have the equipment? And what if it doesn’t set?!! However, as someone who was stirring pots of bubbling strawberry jam before she was out of kindergarten, I’m here to tell you that it’s not that deep. Sure, there are a few guidelines to keep in mind, but once you know them, you’ll be jamming out in no time. Here are my golden rules for making perfect jam every time.
There are actually two types of jam. The first is cooked jam, which is made by boiling fruit and typically sugar on the stove (although some jams are made without added sugar). The second is freezer jam, which doesn’t involve cooking the fruit at all. Instead, it involves breaking down the fruit (usually in a food processor or with a potato masher) and letting it sit with sugar at room temperature to release more of its juices. The pectin (see below for more on this!) is dissolved and activated in boiling water and then stirred into the macerated fruit. It's not shelf-stable, so it must be stored in the freezer (or in the fridge for up to three weeks).
While freezer jams are typically brighter and contain the truest expression of a fruit’s flavor, they tend to set looser, and they can’t be canned.
As for cooked jam? The rest of my golden rules will cover that in detail. Read on.
Fresh fruit aside, sugar is the most important ingredient in jam making. Sugar (typically granulated) is often added to help the jam thicken and set. Added sugar also helps with preservation. This isn’t just about how sweet the jam is; the amount you add to a batch of jam will really affect how it turns out.
A common ratio is 1 part sugar to 1 part fruit; however, this serves as a starting point. It really depends on the specific fruit you’re using: Fruits that are higher in pectin (such as apples, quince, or pears) will require less sugar to help them set. Ironically, sweeter fruits like cherries or berries tend to require more!
If you’re concerned about your jam turning out too sugary, the type of pectin you use can help you cut back. Which brings me to my next point.
Pectin is a naturally occurring fiber that helps jam thicken and set. Some fruits (such as cranberries) naturally contain lots of pectin, but berries and sweeter fruits contain much less and typically need commercial pectin (and more sugar) to help them set.
Commercial pectin is widely available in grocery stores and online. If you buy commercial pectin, it’s wise to look at the ratios of fruit to sugar that the manufacturer recommends (there will usually be a recipe on the back) since that specific pectin has been formulated to set with that amount of sugar. You can also buy low-sugar pectin, which is called "low-sugar" NOT because it contains less sugar (store-bought pectin doesn’t contain sugar!) but because it has been designed to set jam with less added sugar in the mix.
Pectin requires a small amount of acid to activate it and help the jam set. While commercial pectin often comes with the acid (usually citric acid) mixed in, you will need to add acid to the jam if you’re relying on a fruit’s natural pectin—unless, of course, you’re making a citrus jam! Lemon juice is a common addition, but you could use another citrus juice if you want, or even a tiny amount of citric or malic acid, if you happen to have them. These powdered acids are stronger, though, so be cautious. You don't want your jam too tart.
As the jam is cooking, you’ll notice a thick foam bubbling up in the pot. Typically lighter in color than the jam underneath, this foam is a mix of air, sugars, and proteins that are being released as the jam cooks. This foam is completely edible, so you can simply stir it back into the jam if you like; however, since it introduces a different texture and cloudy streaks into the jam, many people like to skim it off.
If you’d like to skim, wait until you’re done cooking the jam, and then use a large metal spoon to gently remove the foamy layer from the top. I like to save it—it still tastes great, even if it’s a little frothy!—and keep it in a separate container for personal use. I eat it like jam, although the texture is different and the flavor is more delicate.
How can you tell if your jam has cooked enough and will thicken properly as it cools? This is where the cold plate test comes in. Before beginning to cook the jam, put a small plate in the freezer. To check the consistency of the jam, remove the plate from the freezer and add a small drop of jam to it. Let it sit for a few seconds, and then push it with your finger. If the drop of jam scoots across the plate as one blob, it’s cooked long enough and is good to go.
Some of the highest anxieties around jam-making center around canning. Guess what—you don’t have to! While cooked jam can be canned, it can also be refrigerated for up to three weeks. If you want to keep it longer, it can be preserved by freezing. If you intend to freeze, be sure to leave room at the top of the jars for the jam to expand; you don’t want it to leak out the top as it freezes.