Were still cooling our heels after a rollercoaster fashion month which featured hundreds of shows across four major cities. Now it’s wrapped, we’ve been left to digest our favourite street style looks, front row fashion moments and dissect all the trends we spotted on the runways.

For those of us not planning on splurging on head-to-toe looks from the runway, accessories provide us with a natural point to stay connected to the luxury brands we love — we might not pick up a Prada coat, but a pair of loafers or a designer bag can elevate an entire wardrobe.

There were some disquieting themes on the runway that pointed to the troubled world we live with. We saw a greige take on fine tailoring, nicknamed “corporate core” everywhere, leading some to suggest we’re all dressing for the jobs we want but don’t have. And of course, the OTT faux-luxury fur aesthetic carried a whiff of keeping up with the Joneses — when times are tough minamalist “quiet luxury” coats are out as people loo to wear their money. And, while we didn’t necessarily see the hemline index proven with shorter skirts, silhouettes were certainly more feminine.

As noted by fashion’s favourite social media number cruncher Data But Make It Fashion these trends are all recession indicators. But as sobering as they might be, they’re also stylish.

Accessories followed suit, in some instances were the stars of the proverbial show. In trying economic times the right maximalist piece, whether an exaggerated broach or piled on belt can elevate a simple outfit or add personality to a look.

Shoes were heavily embellished and textured, and jewellery had a costume-like quality whether it was oversized lockets at Chloé or draped horebit necklaces at Gucci. And, designers were living for drama with accessories loved by our grandmother’s (who also lived through economic tough times) like hats, stoles and gloves abounding. 

Here were the accessories trends we see ourselves carrying into winter.

If you’re in doubt, pop a belt or three on it. Belts where everywhere on the runway this season most strikingly at Schiaparelli RTW where layered belts in mixed metals provided us with an abundance of wardrobe inspiration. At Hodokova and Vaquera belts were built into all black ensembles and of course, the belted bag continued its reign. After being championed by Miu Miu and Prada, Balmain has hopped on the belted trend with their Anthem bag, already set to be a cult classic.

Speaking of cult bags, it felt like designers were playing their greatest hits this season with the Chloé Paddington bag making a timely return to the runway. Chloé isn’t the only luxury brand taking a tour of the past with their accessories. For their 100 year anniversary runway Fendi gave its Peekaboo bag a delightfully furry update and reissued their Spy bag.

Other houses looked to the archives, or resale sites, for cues. Dior have rereleased the Carrie Bradshaw-approved J’Adore Dior t-shirt while Seán McGirr dug up the iconic Alexander McQueen skull scarf print. What was once a pattern that adorned the necks and bags of Nicole Richie, the Olsen twins, Sienna Miller and Ashlee Simpson can now be worn as a top, hoorah.

It makes sense that in a challenged market designers are looking at classics that are still resonating with Gen Z and millennial consumers, and the kind of Y2K styles that are popular on resale sites are the best indicator. According to resale sites, the Chloé Paddington was perfectly poised for a comeback. Depop reported a 1,137% rise in searches for the bag since June and LTK saw the bag spike 3000% presumably thanks to Chemena Kamali’s successful revival of the boho trend. It seems like young bargain hunters are now the most reliable fashion forecasters.

The biggest indicator skinny jeans are finally going to make a comeback? The (literal) rise of the knee high boot. Not seen since the 2010s leather boots that grazed the upper thigh were all over the runway. Styles at Burberry and Khaite had a equestrian feel (we assume we’ll be seeing riding crops on accessories lists next season). Meanwhile, the controversial slouchy boot was seen at Sportmax and Balmain. A vaguely piratecore style, it’s perfect for slipping over skin tight denim or under a floaty boho gown.

The “fine” was nixed from fine jewellery with statement necklaces, preferably layered and stacked bracelets abounding. At shows like Miu Miu and Chloé jewellery took inspiration from the past. Models toting grandma-inspired stoles and Miu Miu accessorised with oversized brooches and earrings. Meanwhile, at Chloé there was a girlish 1970s festival spirit. Chunky oversized heart shaped lockets were layered with long chains adorned with keys and (some noted, slightly suspicious looking) vials. The perfect adornment for the festival-ready sprites on the runway. At Gucci models clavicles were adorned with plunging horsebit necklaces while at Rabanne stacked earrings off set high leather and faux fur lined collars.

Something we haven’t seen since the 2010s? Maximalism meets slightly nanna-ish charm extended all the way down to hosiery this season. The textured lace stocking but like so many things indie sleaze, she’s back, and we’re charmed. Lace stockings were the perfect compliment to feminine skirts at Valentino and Alexander McQueen and a coquettish accent at Isabel Marant and Balenciaga.

There was something idiosyncratic and quirky about styling this season. Designers taking a major dose of inspiration from the pas and incorporated funny little hats, gloves, scarfs and stoles wherever they saw fit. While the jury is out on the return of opera gloves at ELLE (can main character energy be taken too far?) the presence of so much millinery felt particularly charming.

---