Translated by
Nazia BIBI KEENOO

Published
June 6, 2025

Hoodies, oversized puffer jackets, baggy trousers, long coats, distressed or washed denim — Demna has unveiled his final ready-to-wear collection for Balenciaga, a curated synthesis of his 10-year tenure at the Kering-owned fashion house. The collection serves as a manifesto, or a parting statement, as the designer prepares to leave the Parisian label in July, following his last couture show, to take the helm at Gucci, the group's flagship brand.

The Georgian-born, German-based designer (whose full name is Demna Gvasalia) has reshaped Balenciaga’s image over the past decade, bringing it firmly into the 21st century with a blend of luxury streetwear and tailored silhouettes featuring exaggerated proportions. For spring 2026, he presents 48 looks. The lineup spans sculptural, tailored pieces that reinterpret Cristóbal Balenciaga’s signature curves and a sportier, street-inspired wardrobe marked by oversized volumes, reworked vintage items and an anti-establishment spirit that defines the designer’s approach. These elements contrast sharply with the refined, romantic style of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who will succeed him.

The collection features pieces drawn from 35 past collections, new designs and garments from the designer’s personal wardrobe. “They represent the volumes, silhouettes and attitudes that have shaped my vision and exploration of contemporary wardrobe — what people really wear, how they wear it, and the line between luxury and fashion,” Demna explains in a letter-style statement, describing the collection as “a return to my roots after all these years.”

The collection unmistakably evokes Vetements, the brand Demna founded in 2014 and left in 2019. It also suggests the potential direction Gucci might take in the coming months — reimagining the Italian house’s classics through a radical contemporary lens and elevating everyday pieces into a new form of luxury through an ongoing exploration of wardrobe archetypes.

“My work at Balenciaga, and in general, has often revolved around the anthropology of fashion and dress codes,” Demna notes. To visually reinforce this theme, he collaborated with photographer Ari Versluis and profiler-stylist Ellie Uyttenbroek. The Dutch duo, whose project Exactitudes (also the title of this collection) has strongly influenced Demna’s styling, have spent years photographing and categorizing individuals across various socio-cultural groups based on their clothing and style.

Demna first discovered their work while studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Over the years, he has continued to explore the concept of social uniforms and how individuals personalize their clothing. The work of Versluis and Uyttenbroek has left a lasting imprint on his fashion approach. Speaking about this final collection, the artistic director highlights this influence: “It marks the end of a beautiful era that I wanted to capture and celebrate by creating the ‘Balenciaga archetypes’ — the people, silhouettes, atmosphere and ideas that have all been fundamental to my work for this incredible house.”

At the same time, the brand is launching a music collaboration with Britney Spears as part of its Balenciaga Music project, which began in 2020. The project offers Balenciaga clients access to curated musical content, including playlists compiled by Demna and various artists, along with a capsule collection.

Inspired by the American pop star’s concert aesthetic, the collection features a limited edition of T-shirts, zip-up hoodies and caps adorned with Spears’ autograph and archival imagery, finished with vintage-inspired treatments that resemble classic album merchandise. The project also includes an exclusive playlist created by the pop icon and two remixes of her most iconic tracks by BFRND, the stage name of musician Loïk Gomez — Demna’s husband — who has composed the soundtracks for all Balenciaga runway shows.

Before unveiling his couture collection and moving on to Milan, the designer will receive one final tribute in Paris during men’s fashion week with an exhibition titled Balenciaga by Demna, which will run from June 26 to July 9 at Kering’s headquarters on Rue de Sèvres.