Sang Kee is a hallowed name in (and around) this city. Chinatown’s legendary Sang Kee Peking Duck House set the gold standard for its crispy namesake duck and classic Cantonese and Hong Kongese dishes in huge portions. But each spin off has a different style, from Reading Terminal’s limited-menu quick service stall to the grad student gathering spot, Sang Kee Noodle House in University City. Wynnewood’s Sang Kee Asian Bistro is the dressed-up-for-date-night version of the sister restaurants, complete with cocktails, dim lighting and plush faux-leather orange booths.

Some of the menu items pay homage to the “Asian Bistro” name, with early aughts fancy fusion dishes like pan seared Chilean sea bass for $42. But at its heart, the service and menu are more Sang Kee than Asian Bistro. Skip what sounds frou frou and order the dishes that make Sang Kee a Philly classic: anything from the dim sum menu, Peking duck, and beef chow fun. Having classic Sang Kee dishes in a place with free parking and cocktails is reward in itself. You didn’t come here for the tempura avocado.