Torres Strait Islander chef Nornie Bero is on the cusp of a rebirth of sorts, one that’s stemmed from a traumatic period for the acclaimed chef and restaurateur.
Just three months ago Bero reluctantly had to tell her staff at her Federation Square restaurant Big Esso, they no longer had a job and that within 24 hours of that announcement, the popular eatery would be closing its doors.
The decision left staff and members of the community in shock.
The speed of the closure of the venue and Nornie’s long term business Mabu Mabu caught everyone off guard, even Bero herself.
“I was told to shut it down as soon as possible, and I had limited time to do it in, just two days. That’s just not enough time.”
In April 2025 Big Esso was placed into voluntary liquidation.
The sudden closure impacted suppliers and staff.
The Herald Sun reported that some kitchen staff, who had been hired on visa schemes, had only three months to find new work or face possible deportation.
“I wish I could’ve done it all in a different way," Bero said.
"When you go through a process like this you don’t know what you have to do, or what you can and can’t say.
"It was just awful. The staff felt like family to me, so this was not something I wanted to do but I had to work on the advice I was given.”
However, a lot has happened since the abrupt closure.
Bero has been working steadfastly to rebuild not just her brand, but her reputation, in her quest to fulfil her commitments to those who lost out during the business liquidation.
“I promised back then that I would fulfil all my commitments, not just to my staff but to all of my suppliers," she said.
"I hired a lot of people and genuinely valued everyone I worked with.
"And I stand by that, I will honour all of my commitments and it’s already happening now.”
Bero says that, although the process to restructure has started, the whole process is likely to take six months to rectify.
Her condiments brand Mabu Mabu is about to relaunch its online store.
“That looks like it should be back up and running within a week," Bero said.
"I started Mabu Mabu making condiments, and it’s always been what's helped get through, so it’s no surprise it’s coming back.”
But her biggest surprise is that she expects to reopen Big Esso, sometime in the next month.
"I’m currently in negotiations with Fed Square," Bero said.
"It’s currently with their board, but they’ve been incredibly supportive in the past and I’m hopeful we can get it across the line.”
Looking to the future, Nornie feels like things are bright.
“Look this closure was not something that I ever imagined I’d have to go through. There was no map to show me the right way to go.
"I’ve learnt a lot along the way, and I think the business will be better than ever before as a result.”
All the while, it’s the love of food that keeps Nornie going.
“Indigenous food security is important to me. Whether it’s employing First Nations peoples in kitchens, working with First Nations suppliers, or making food that reflects culture. That’s always important to me.”
You can hear how Nornie started her business Mabu Mabu on Living Black. Catch up on SBS On Demand.
