Speak easy Tapas Bar in East Rockaway looks like the type of neighborhood joint you'd stumble upon. There's not much of a sign, the inside has a dark tavern vibe and a line of regulars posted up at the bar. But then Frank Pollack swings by and drops off an amuse-bouche, in this case a shot of tomato soup with a slice of grilled cheese. The menu is bistro fare, like potato croquettes and whipped ricotta cheese. How did this happen? 

Pollack is a well-known bartender in the Long Beach area, having worked at Corazon de Cuba and Felicia, a newer bistro on Park Avenue in Long Beach and A Taberna in Island Park. He's a memorable figure, with a muscly build and teddy bear personality. Pollack always wanted a place of his own, but after so many years of working for other people, he was about to move to be with his parents in North Carolina. Then he met Dominick Agro and Gioacchino Augello, who had recently purchased Del Sur in East Rockaway and converted it to a bar named Speak easy. The two needed help managing the direction of their business, and offered to bring Pollack on as a partner. 

"I talked to my wife about it. She said, 'Listen what’s the worst that could happen?' " he said. 

So he went to them with a list of changes he wanted to make, and they said yes. Pollack enlisted Craig Attwood, owner of the recently-closed Five Ocean in Long Beach, to help build the menu. Pollack and his wife were fans of Five Ocean's mussels and fried chicken. Similar versions of both dishes can now be found at Speak easy, which reopened in April. Chef William Elizondo, formerly of TAO in Manhattan, executes the menu on a daily basis while many of the servers are East Rockaway high schoolers, adding to the charm. 

The highlight of the small menu is the signature burger ($24), made with a blend of chuck and brisket that stays juicy even if customers order it well-done. The burger is laced with melted Gruyere and bourbon sautéed onions, which add a sweet funk to the soft affair. A shareable plate of whipped ricotta also stands out, with its spectacularly puffy pita bread. The thoughtful plating and interesting flavors punch above their level. But many people will still come in just to see Pollack, and enjoy a bourbon cocktail (his favorite is the classic old-fashioned without any muddled cherries or oranges). 

Speak easy Tapas Bar, 451 Atlantic Ave., East Rockaway, 516-341-0599, speakeasytapasbar.com. Open 4-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 4-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.