From Fashion East and Dreaming Eli to Di Petsa and more, here are some highlights from some of the recent shows.

Richard Quinn created a winter wonderland and brought back Dior’s ‘new look’ silhouette almost 80 years later at London Fashion Week. It was as though the show was encapsulated within a vintage snow globe.

The British designer transformed the Royal Horticultural Halls into a winter wonderland, with a Georgian townhouse emblazoned with his name above the door and wrought iron gates guiding models through a glowing runway lined with street lamps and dusted with snow.

As snow fell from the ceiling, classical strings began to play, and sumptuous silks, pouffes and ruffles began to spill out onto the runway. Despite being famed for his liberal use of loud florals and capacious ruffles; this collection took a more refined approach – showcasing monotoned silks, pitch-dark velvets and elegant embellished gowns.

However, that’s not to say the collection wasn’t without his quintessential florals. Large eighties-style roses washed evening gowns, with exaggerated shoulder pads and cinched wasp waists, blending the extremes of striking confidence and soft femininity in the collection.

Quinn’s bridal collection was the jewel in the crown. His old Hollywood glamour, floor-length veils, ruffles, satin and refined embellishments offered the perfect timeless yet contemporary wedding gowns.

25 years in, Fashion East’s design incubator is still going strong. This season, Louther, Nuba and Olly Shinder presented their respective autumn/winter 2025 collections during the show.

Louther, which is led by German designer Olympia Schiele, collaborated with Polish visual artist Helena Minginowicz this season, whose work explores perception, relationships, and impermanence.

Her practice contrasts traditional canvases with disposable materials, questioning notions of value and beauty in a consumer-driven world. By blending classical influences with mass production and digital aesthetics, she reflects on the intersection of high and low culture - an echo of the themes within this collection. Tailoring, baggy pants and oversized jackets are featured throughout the designs, alongside leather garments and accessories. Meanwhile, the colour palette of black and grey was interspersed with pops of khaki, brown and white.

Nuba is led by co-creative directors Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika. The collection shares a material exploration of functionality, environment and desire. A statement of timelessness and resourcefulness, featuring cross-seasonal, foundational pieces crafted for layering, and adapting to one's environment, interpreting the relationship we have with clothing when ‘ waking up’ to a more secure and confident self.

Basics were layered, scarves wrapped overcoats, essentials transformed into protective armour, and bags created for multi-purpose use. Textural juxtapositions were also a key aspect of the initial imagining of this collection; soft material against muted glass buildings, rubber against concrete, loose skirts against tailored jackets. The muted greys and browns of the city against the blues and greens of nature.

Delivering his most distilled collection to date, Olly Shinder subverted associations of utilitarian garments by reinterpreting military wear. The recontextualisation of camouflage netting was a key focus, with army-issue thermals also recreated in fine cotton yarn to produce semi-sheer, ribbed stretch sweaters and tank tops.

A traditional German Guild shirt was reimagined with a complex placket construction. The latter is a staple of the season’s womenswear offering, which marks Shinder’s most robust exploration in the category to date, also inspired by 1950s nursing uniforms, which could be seen in the smock and pinafore dresses.

Di Peta unveiled Reflections of Desire, described as a sensual exploration of divine sexuality and the subversion of female desire archetypes. This season, Greek designer Dimitra Petsa does not simply dress the body; she explores the longing, hunger, and ecstasy that defines it. The focus is on the chest and the crotch, "the two divine centres of pleasure, emotion, and power".

Lace underwear becomes jewellery, draped and wrapped around the body, while white lace thongs encircle the neck, mixing with strands of pearls - a poetic interplay of love and indulgence. In addition, this season's prints feature the imprints of the designer's own lips, marking garments with the intimate trace of a kiss.

Tailoring featuring velvet-covered lace and sharp cuts softened by cascading drapery for autumn/winter 2025 and vegan leather coats sculpted the body reminiscent of Ancient Greek sculptures.

Petsa also reimagined menswear from the female gaze, crafting characters that embody poets, muses, fantasies, and goddesses, each a manifestation of the creative force of Eros.

Power, beauty and femininity – that’s what Dreaming Eli is all about. Founded by Creative Director Elisa Trombatore, the womenswear label opens a discussion about the strength that comes with seduction.

For AW25, Dreaming Eli’s collection ‘Between My Heart and Ribs’ is the product of Tombatore looking inwards. Each stitch was inspired by poet Warsan Shire, who wrote "you can’t make a home out of human beings; someone should have already told you that". With these words in mind, the CSM graduate explored the intricate layers of flesh, bone and emotion and translates this into a collection of gothic galore.

Within the hallowed walls of a gothic Clerkenwell Church, the designer showcased shibori fabric manipulation to create constricted, organic shapes that were used to symbolise both bondage and release - evoking the complexities that come with womanhood. Red, which represents trauma and power, bled across the collection, meanwhile soft nudes and pinks evoked intimacy.

Distressed knitwear and deconstructed lingerie were new for the season. But, most notably, the designer branched out into outwear with the introduction of a black puffer jacket etched with corsetry detailing - as you can see, this is not your average puffer.

This collection was the perfect example of a designer who loves and celebrates the female form and the women she dresses.

Founded by Creative Director Daniel Gayle, working alongside Artistic Director James Bosley, Denzilpatrick is a contemporary London-based menswear brand that uses the language of clothing to capture the spirit and stories of the city and its urban identity under its "London Belongs To Me" ethos.

Presenting a "modern parade of chivalry and brotherhood", the British brand's show notes describe this season's collection as a "medieval revival, with a sense of pageantry and peacocking, interspersed with the independent spirit of the racetrack".

The designs see ostentatious slogans and regal pattern decorate mud-splashed race gear. Meanwhile, battle dress is cast in daywear fabrics, "armed and ready for the daily London commute".

The brand's signature use of colour is also expounded in the collection as team-kit colours became regal tones and evening dress blacks were swapped for shades of gunmetal, silver and anthracite.