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La Jefa La Jefa nails all-day coffee, cocktails and conchas

Published 1 week ago3 minute read

Rittenhouse’s La Jefa opened with a lot of anticipation—after all, it’s the sibling of the beautiful (and much-beloved) Tequila’s. By day, this cafe stands out on its own thanks to its fantastic Mexican-inspired breakfast, baked goods, and yes, cocktails (the Green Apple Garibaldi being our favorite). The sit-down menu is full of hits: chilaquiles with pickled ayocote, an oat and fruit bowl punched up by turmeric milk, and a zesty zucchini sandwich topped with cilantro pesto and pepper relish. You’ll want to lounge for an hour or two in the airy, tile-filled dining room, but if you have to take your totomoxtle latte to go, be sure to grab a blackberry concha, too (the pastries here are knockouts).

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

Come nightfall, the lights go dim and the music borders on clubstaurant volume, especially in Jefa Milpa, the brooding secondary dining room in the back. It's a perfect place for a sexy date—dishes are ideal for sharing with just one other person. Skip the larger plates in the fuertes section of the menu altogether and opt for a snacky dinner of starters: the shrimp aguachile and ceviche blanco are punchy, the carnitas vampiro are served with a silky guacachile, and you'll fight over the last of the caesar slaw with the taco dorado.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Alison Kessler

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

Not to be outdone by the food are the cocktails, which are among some of the most interesting—and delicious—in the city. If you don't have time to come here for a full meal, make the effort to at least try the Raspado with fermented guava, the Calabaza with butter-washed paranubes añejo, or the creamy, masa-syrup topped Maiz. It's worth the 15-minute wait time, and then some. But then again, almost everything here is.

You probably won't recognize about half of the ingredients listed on the cocktail menu. That doesn't matter. You could close your eyes, point, and we can guarantee you'll be happy with what they serve you.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

These options change daily, but we haven't had a bad one yet. Pictured here is the delicate, perfectly sweet blackberry concha, which is our favorite thus far. But if the chocolate mole cookie is available, you want one of those, too.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

La Jefa turns their chilaquiles inside out—the tortillas, pickled ayocote beans, and red onions are all tucked inside a perfect omelet. It's satisfying without being heavy, and the best egg dish here.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

We've never had pastrami like this before. The house-cured meat is topped with a spicy chili mayo, but works perfectly thanks to the cool and crunchy coleslaw.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

The consomme is fantastic—smooth, thicker than most, and savory. But the tacos themselves are wrapped in a too-thick shell, totally overpowering the meat inside. Skip these and opt for the Taco Dorado de Rajas instead.

La Jefa image

photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo

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