In the Pacific Northwest, spring is so close right now that you can almost smell the wisteria. Cherry blossoms are about to burst, days are getting longer, and we’re waiting with bated breath for our favorite veggies at the farmers’ market. Yet, as Northwesterners know, there are many gloomy days ahead till we can reliably wear a T-shirt and shorts into the wee hours. Even for those of us eagerly awaiting this seasonal shift, might I suggest leaning into winter just a little longer?
Though I’ve been in Portland for over a decade, I’m originally from Southern California and forever a summer devotee. (Did my waxing poetic about flowers and produce give me away?) In order to cope with the Northwest’s gloomy months, I’m always looking for activities that help pass the rainy season and get me outdoors. I’ve never liked skiing or snowboarding, but I love an excuse to bundle up, grab some hot chocolate and soak up a pastoral winter scene. Snowshoeing is the perfect activity for those of us who love a winter hike, but don’t necessarily have the skills (or bravery) to glide down a mountain at top speeds.
On the first day of March, a shockingly warm and sunny day in Oregon, I ventured to the Tamanawas Falls trailhead with a friend. We strapped on some old MSR snowshoes she’s been holding onto and found ourselves waddling around a mostly muddy and icy trail, as hikers quickly passed us in more efficient—and admittedly more sleek and stylish—crampons. But about a half-mile into the hike, snow and ice surrounded us, and we put our snowshoes to good use.
If you’re traveling from or through Portland, you can rent a pair of snowshoes from Mountain Shop ($12 for two nights) or Next Adventure ($20 per day), and you’ll find a handful of ski shops and ski resorts within 20 miles of the Tamanawas Falls trailhead that lend them out as well ($20 per day).
Though we mustered through, if you’re looking for a truly idyllic snowshoeing experience, I’d either wait till next winter or find a higher elevation trail, like Trillium Lake’s Winter Loop or a portion of the Timberline Trail. Ideal snow for this activity is light, fluffy and freshly fallen. The shoes should allow a hiker to hop along without sinking up to their knees. You’ll want to check trip reports from websites like AllTrails or the U.S. Forest Service to get the most up-to-date info on conditions, especially because hiking in snow and ice can be treacherous.
The drive from Portland is about an hour and a half. We drove along I-84, through the sunny and windswept Columbia Gorge till arriving in adorable Hood River, where you turn onto Highway 35 and pass apple orchards and scenic farms on Mount Hood. There was plenty of parking on a sunny Saturday, but a valid Recreation Pass is required year-round.
You’ll follow Cold Spring Creek most of the two miles to Tamanawas Falls, which are so powerful that misty alpine water sprays when you’re standing a quarter mile from them. There’s a boulder field that was a little tough to navigate in the ice, so be prepared to use your hands for a little support while working your way through.
As a beginner snowshoer but an intermediate hiker, this was a satisfying out-and-back trail. Round trip we clocked about four miles, but ice and snow elongated the occasionally rugged hike, so it took us a couple of hours. A standard hike of this length doesn’t usually exhaust me, but wading through ice and snow tuckered me out. The next day my thighs and shins were feeling it, but in a satisfying, hard-day’s-work sort of way. Whether you decide to brave the ice or wait until wildflowers pop up (likely by May), you won’t be disappointed.
For a post-snowshoeing, congratulatory beverage, Hood River offers an almost comical number of breweries. Try pFriem, Full Sail or Ferment for beer and plenty of food options. My personal preference is to venture over the Columbia River to White Salmon, via the Hood River Bridge (expect a small toll each way). The town is much smaller than Hood River but less touristy. Everybody’s Brewing offers sweeping views and outdoor fire tables, White Salmon Baking Co. has delicious pastries and Feast Market & Delicatessen serves great sandwiches. If you want a more elevated meal, or if beer isn’t your thing, I can’t recommend Soca Wine Shop & Bar enough.
