After years of listening to U.S. wine professionals wax poetic about the caliber of bottles coming out of Virginia, I finally tried a few. I’m awfully glad I did. The state’s far-flung wine scene spans cutting-edge co-ferments, community-driven crush programs, and classical operations that all reflect their origins in smart, dynamic ways. One standout? Early Mountain Vineyards Intention 2020, a blend of Petit Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc from a 300-acre vineyard not far from the epically beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains. 

Bright and sophisticated, Intention exemplifies one of the many types of quality wine coming out of this relatively young U.S. region. It’s an elegant affair with just-picked stone fruit and clementine aromas followed by grilled pineapple flavors and a savory, mushroomy edge. The viscosity gives it lots of food pairing potential, as does the long, citrus-forward finish. I paired my glass with a bowl of shiitake-topped honey-miso udon—a clean-out-the-fridge meal inspired by a recipe by the talented cookbook author Hetty Lui McKinnon—but you could also take this bottle to a dinner party where roasted or grilled chicken or fish is on the menu. Whether you’ve been singing the praises of Virginia wine for years, or are new to the choir, this bottle hits all the right notes. $90, store.earlymountain.com

Emily Saladino

Contributing Editor Emily Saladino is a New York-based journalist and recipe developer. Previously the managing editor of Wine Enthusiast and editor-in-chief of VinePair, her work has appeared in The Washington Post, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Food Network, and many others. A former professional cook and bartender, she holds a Culinary Arts degree from The French Culinary Institute and Level II Certification from The Wine & Spirit Education Trust. She has a poorly behaved cattle dog named Arby.