Simon Porte Jacquemus looked back to the 1950’s for Jacquemus spring/summer 2025. The collection, named "La Croisiere", is French for "Cruise". The designer took inspiration from French and American fashion of the decade, infusing designs from the Golden Ages of couture and Hollywood red carpets alike. The ready-to-wear show took place during Couture Fashion Week in Paris and had nods to couture, both in its salon-style format and in the clothes themselves. The intimate show was held in the Art Deco apartment of renowned French architect Auguste Perret with just 40 guests in attendance including Anna Wintour, Carla Bruni, Pamela Anderson, and Tina Kunakey.

The looks were a clear departure away from resortwear into a more grown-up realm. Classic and glamorous pieces hit the runway including A-line silhouettes, animal-print opera coats, full-length leather gloves, and a polka dot skirt finished with a dramatic train. With the much-discussed rise of elegant fashion, the momentum for polished and sophisticated style is set to continue. Ahead, more on the spring/summer 2025 Jacquemus collection.

Jacquemus is known for destination shows in far-flung places featuring designs that reflect the environment: draped jersey and chiffon dresses in shades of pastel shown in Capri; head-to-toe crinkled linen on the sandy shores of Oahu; gauzy swathes of sheer fabrics along other-worldly salt mountains in the South of France. For the spring/summer 2025 runway show—shown during Couture Fashion Week—Jacquemus again embraced the setting with a couture-inspired collection.

The show was held in Paris in a wood-paneled apartment designed by architect Auguste Perret, which provided the backdrop for the salon-style show. The fashion, too, was inspired by couture with pieces that exhibit elegance and glamour, and are decidedly more grown-up than past collections.

The collection brought together the worlds of French and American style. According to an interview with Vogue, Jacquemus was thinking about the back and forth between French and American fashion after opening his stores in New York and L.A., as well as how Coco Chanel and Christian Dior led the charge for this many decades earlier. This inspired him to research old salon-style French couture shows and looks from iconic American actresses including Marilyn Monroe. The references, looking back at '50s couture fashion and Hollywood, were fused on the runway in the form of classic, elegant ensembles. However, the addition of pieces such as funnel-neck outerwear, sporty quarter-zip jackets, and suede sneakers lent a modern element.

The front row was packed with A-list celebrities including Pamela Anderson, Carla Bruni, Tina Kunakey, and Tyla. Their outfits included a range of signature Jacquemus pieces. Anderson wore a full A-line skirt, collared shirt, pumps, and clutch, which were a nod to some of the looks in the just-debuted collection.

Kristen Nichols is the Associate Director, Special Projects at Who What Wear with over a decade of experience in fashion, editorial, and publishing. She oversees luxury and runway content as well as wedding features, and covers fashion within the luxury market, runway reporting, shopping features, trends, and interviews with leading industry experts. She also contributes to podcast recordings, social media, and branded content initiatives. Kristen has worked with brands including Prada, Chanel, Tiffany & Co., and MyTheresa, and rising designers such as Refine and Tove, and her style has been featured in publications including Vogue.com, Vogue France, WWD, and the CFDA. Before Who What Wear, Kristen began her career at Rodarte, where she worked on styling, photo shoots, and runway shows, and at Allure, where she moved into print and digital editorial. She graduated from the University of Southern California, where she studied art history and business, and currently lives in New York.