Powered by Cheez-It®, Pulse Check is a series that dives into basketball's rich history and enduring impact. In the third of five installments, we’ll look at one of the most interesting occurrences in hoops history: Player Style and The Acclaimed Tunnel Fit Phenomenon.

“Look good, play good” is an adage as old as sport itself. But behind the veil of ostentatious grandeur lies a straightforward truth: to perform at your peak, you must indeed feel at your peak. This sentiment is now almost inseparable from basketball after the game assumed the role of high fashion’s go-to sport—whether by design or chance. Calculated fits, custom on-court kicks, and the ongoing debate regarding the proper length of athlete’s shorts all give the game its signature allure—the pinnacle of cool that young fans often try to replicate. 

Still, in the past, this emphasis on aesthetics rightfully took a back seat to performance—because, of course, it would, right? Today, basketball’s cultural observers have seemingly shifted their priorities, elevating the importance of off-court style to near the same level as in-game play—sometimes even balancing the two. While actual production remains the main conduit for athletes to establish their reputation (ultimately, the ball needs to go in the basket), an impeccable fashion sense has become a valuable tool to amplify players’ brands outside the lines of play.  

Yet, as a “phenomenon” that may have just achieved mainstream recognition within the last decade or so, hoops’ affinity for the discipline of dress has sustained generations, maturing into the noteworthy—often polarizing—result we see going viral on our feeds. 

Rewinding to the 1960s is when the first semblance of sartorial prowess reared its tailored head in basketball. Before that point, the sport remained tied to its recreational roots. However, with the formation of new professional leagues and the emergence of superstar athletes, the game started accumulating clout among the masses. Known for his enchanting charisma in addition to his otherworldly skills, the legendary Wilt Chamberlain stood out as basketball’s first certified style purveyor during its transition from leisurely pastime to full-blown spectacle. 

The generational figure maintained a flamboyant appearance, never shying from making a statement—it’s well-documented that The Big Dipper loved an open-shirt moment. Thanks to his gregarious ways, the basketball Hall of Famer straddled the line between athlete and pop culture personality, breaking the perceived mold and setting a precedent for the league’s future stars.

Walt “Clyde” Frazier fronted the next crop of players known for putting it on each time they stepped onto the scene. Influenced by his fashion-inclined father, the Knicks legend is why the word “fly” exists in the common lexicon. Celebrated for his dazzling bespoke suits and coordinated presentation, the OG NBA-style god used his outfits to differentiate himself from the field, creating a whole persona around his custom ensembles.

In the eras that followed, more pros used fashion to authentically express their personalities—a trend that subtly humanized them, even as it further abstracted them from everyday society. It was intriguing to see high-profile hoopers like Magic Johnson and Julius Erving in a light other than the one reflected off the hardwood. However, the caliber of fits these guys were consistently throwing reminded everyone that they were literally operating in an entirely different league. 

Through the ‘80s and ‘90s, the average baller developed a general sense of style as a reaction to evolving societal tastes. It was only after the (in)famous Dennis Rodman broke through that things really shook up. A forefather of the Tunnel Walk, Rodman’s off-the-wall stunts left fans and fellow leaguers captivated—perhaps even a bit perturbed—by his bold choice of clothing. Leveraging the absurd aspects of fashion, basketball’s agent provocateur stood alone in his endeavors, making The Worm a true one-of-one.

Following a similar rebellious blueprint, Allen Iverson’s signature swag deviated from the professional norm in the 2000s. Iverson wasn’t nearly as performative as Rodman but arguably made a larger impact—throughout the league and culture at large. A purveyor of the baggy silhouette, the renowned point guard struck the elusive balance between comfort and cool, opting for outfits suited to his natural demeanor. A fan favorite then and now, Iverson’s maverick attitude left a lasting impression that carried over years after he took his last shot as a pro. 

By the mid-2010s, the NBA and its relationship with style began to morph into the monolith we now see. Thanks to Russell Westbrook, Jordan Clarkson, and Kyle Kuzma, among many other perennial LeagueFits all-stars, the conversation around fashion’s prominence within basketball culture became undeniable. With every team’s tunnel turning into a full-on designer runway, this specific era could be seen as the sport’s great awakening—where timeline-altering looks became a regular occurrence. 

We are now left with a marriage between two seemingly contrasting coalitions that have discovered common ground—a disciplinary Romeo and Juliet without the macabre ending. The fact is a good-looking jumper is no longer the only way to garner attention. Oklahoma City Thunder guard Shai Gilgeous-Alexander has become the de facto leader among the many names, validating and perpetuating this notion. Seen fronting seasonal campaigns, strutting down catwalks, and collaborating with big-name brands in the off-season, players like SGA in the modern NBA have started to think much broader than just the 94 feet of action on gameday.

But where do we go from here? A fair question, as some detractors argue that the league has skewed too far toward optics over output. Still, there's no denying that this crossover between luxury looks and ball has elevated the game's profile globally, generating brand recognition the sport has never seen before. Whether that hype stems from vanity is beside the point—because, at the end of the day, most people will only remember the result. So you might as well make sure the memory is pretty.

Stay tuned for more from Pulse Check and Highsnobiety.