"New LI restaurant serves pasta" may be the "dog-bites-man"-est headline imaginable, but Pastaru Pastificio in Mineola is putting a new spin on that old story.

The new shop serves pasta, sure. But it also makes fresh pasta right behind the counter in full view of the dining area. You can have any of the nine shapes with your choice of 10 sauces, plus sides, salads, Italian beer and wine, dessert and an expertly pulled espresso. Have your pasta to go, or buy a pound and cook it yourself.

Owner Simone Pulieri moved to New York from Italy in 2017. He worked front-of-the-house restaurant jobs in New York City and on Long Island, but always dreamed of "opening something really authentic here — where I could go to eat real carbonara, Amatriciana, Bolognese."

Pulieri is from the Italian region of Puglia, where "pastaru" is dialect for "pastaio," the pasta maker. ("Pastificio" is Italian for pasta factory.)

The soul of Pastaru’s operation is the Emiliomiti machine that kneads double-milled durum semolina flour and water and extrudes spaghetti, linguine, rigatoni, pacchieri, fusilli, fettuccine, pappardelle, ravioli al formaggio. Gnocchi (and, on occasion, Pugliese orecchiette) are made by hand. Pulieri believes the texture of fresh pasta is incomparable — and it's fast.

"Fresh pasta cooks much faster than dried — it usually needs no more than three minutes," he said.

Pastaru’s kitchen is run by Emanuel Concas, a Sardinian-born chef who also presides over the kitchens of Ulivo, Mercato Trattoria and Longo Bros in Manhattan. His sauces are Italian-style: The Bolognese ragù is mostly meat (beef, veal, pork) with very little tomato. Carbonara is made only with guanciale (cured pig jowl), Pecorino Romano and Parmesan, egg (yolks only) and lots of black pepper; cacio e pepe features Pecorino and pepper — there’s no cream in either of them. The third member of the Roman triumvirate is Amatriciana (named for the nearby town of Amatrice) with guanciale, tomatoes, Pecorino and black pepper. Genovese, a Southern Italian sauce of long-cooked onions and veal, may be unfamiliar to many customers.

There’s also simple burro e Parmigiano (butter plus 36-month-aged cheese), pomodoro (made with San Marzano tomatoes, basil and extra-virgin olive oil), "funghi e tartufo" (portobello mushrooms and truffle oil) pesto and vodka sauce. Already sauced and prepped is a lasagna Bolognese with ragù, Parmesan and béchamel (no mozzarella).

Prices are extremely reasonable: Most pastas are $11 per serving, sauces range from $5 to $8. But at lunch, any pasta with any sauce is $15. Side dishes ($11 to $15) include meatballs in pomodoro sauce, arancini, eggplant Parmesan, fried artichoke hearts, arugula-Parmesan salad.

You can have any pasta with any sauce but Pulieri tries to steer toward tried-and-true combinations such as pappardelle with Bolognese, spaghetti or rigatoni with carbonara, fusilli with pesto. He is well aware that Americans expect much more sauce than do Italians, and he tries to split the difference. And while Italians revile the practice of putting a random protein on their pasta, he will top yours with shrimp, grilled or fried chicken cutlet, meatballs or burrata.

"If someone wants linguine pesto with grilled chicken — I can’t tell them how to eat," he said. (The meatballs are delicious; consider having them as a side dish?)

When the concept for Pastaru was taking shape, Pulieri thought he’d just open a takeout shop, but finding the Willis Avenue spot that used to be Eleanor Rigby’s made him rethink his plans. "It was really too large for just takeout," he said, "but I loved the space. I saw all the courts and the train station and the hospital and all the new housing and I thought, yes, Mineola."

Pastaru Pastificio, 133 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 646-871-0154, pastarupasta.com. Open Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.